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Obergabelhorn (4063m/13330ft) and Zinalrothorn (4221m/13848ft) are two mountains in the Zermatt area, located in the middle of some of the most famous peaks of the Alps.

A typical climb of the Obergabelhorn over the Arbengrat starts by ascending up to the Arben Bivouac hut. Climbers stay there over night and start their ascent before dawn. Reaching the summit of the Obergabelhorn is only half of the tour, the descent over the NE-ridge and traverse of the Wellenkuppe (3903m/12805ft) is still challenging, until the Rothorn hut comes into sight. The next day, we climbed the Zinalrothorn over the normal route which provides a not less spectacular summit view.

As a side note: The second ascent of the Obergabelhorn was made by Lord Francis Douglas, Peter Taugwalder (my great-great-great grandfather) and Joseph Vianin on 7 July 1865. Douglas and Taugwalder were part of the rope party that made one week later on 14 July 1865 the first ascent of the Matterhorn under Edward Whymper, where Douglas and three other climbers died during the descent.